Day 82 of 182 (2 of 14 Korea)

One of Clan Carroll’s earlier cycle touring adventures… first proper wild camping Outer Hebridean island of Bute….after an uncomfortably sinister night in Bed & Breakfast (think The Shining meets Fawlty Towers) the plan was to venture into new territories…try out that brand new tent…sniffy lady at tourist info assures that the Community Cafe about 7km away…is open… 2 hours tackling West Coast Scotland wind later HEAD-ON (a local might’ve described it as ‘a bit breezy’) two bicycles (one towing a trailer with 18 month Joe…the other with Sam on tag-a-long) arrived at CLOSED community cafe…Heidi & Brad encountered their first Stressful Situation (remote area, strong wind, young children, inexperience)…they pitched tent wind protected side building near running water & outside loo…woke surrounded by herd of inquisitive cows…very large inquisitive cows….another time, another West Coast Island it was waking to fresh snow…or arriving town in squally Westerly Winds with NO facilities…or needing urgent medical care 9pm…or Eday, Orkney…challenging but always somewhat satisfying…
Today was horrible…mostly…cycling fully laden through fish market and narrow streets great…but the rest of Busan Traffic (population density busan about 4000 people per sq km) horrible. Horrible and dangerous. Cycling on the road is NOT AN OPTION…massive black cars with logo ‘chairman’ and dark tinted windows…motor bikes using pavement short cuts…traffic light observance optional..
TEN SECOND MOMENT: 1) car crash witnessed…2) immediately passed by speeding siren ambulance (headed another accident?)…3) Heidi leading road cross looking to left – taxi jumps his red light to slip through…very close call…Brad sees whole thing as in slow motion (evokes STRONG memories Jo’burg traffic)
Eventually find designated safe cycle lane…looking for wild camping in new country tricky…brochure of good potential area, unfortunately Eco-protected clearly prohibiting camping…not sure where boundary is so have to move away completely…but with time marching on… and no sleeping spot found… Joe INSISTS on seeing the wading birds (Brad opts out anxiety levels too high..Sam prefers to read a bit)…Heidi & Joe return calm from scenery, not from seeing any birds…but the day eventually ends well…
Find designated camp spot in MASSIVE park, very cheap, great facilities, relative quiet from noise of busy 9 lane traffic…
Tomorrows plan to spend second night at camp spot, recover, try work out Korea a bit more…flexibility in plans…Brad still lamenting JE JU Honeymoon island…Heidi missing calmness of Rural Japan…Sam loving the ‘time lapse’ feature on I-pad…Joe drawing birds…

JOE DIARY ENTRY: Cycling through a city is alright, but trying to camp (on an island we don’t have to be on) with a fine of 500, 000 W AND 5 years in jail (where there is a campsite 10km away) is hard. In the end you decide to go to the campsite!

SAM DIARY ENTRY: today we came across a campsite for only 15,000 W with washing up, toilet and hot, refreshing showers.


Story of the day…big black cars tinted windows

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